12 volt <span class="highlight">wiring</span> help

Submitted: Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 17:56
ThreadID: 86142 Views:4421 Replies:7 FollowUps:8
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Hi All

I have attached a few pictures of my electrical dilemma. I bought this car new in 2004, it is in immaculate condition and has only 77,000 on the clock hence I am not looking at selling it in the near future and wish to sort the electrics once and for all! How did this “mess” come about you may ask? When I first bought the car I had an auto electrician install a battery system, 3 x 50 amp excide orbital’s, 1 under the bonnet the other 2 in the rear (parallel) separated from the staring battery by a Red Arc isolator. He also installed a 175 Amp Anderson plug under the rear bumper into which I could plug my 80 Amp Christies charger which in turn would charge my Batteries, I also use this to run charge out of, to either my van or boat when driving. He also installed numerous 12 volt outlets around the car and a switch on the dash that when flick on would allow me to start my car from the auxiliaries batteries should the starting battery fail. At the time I was very happy with his work and I guess I still am, except for one thing, he had an idea of what I planned to do with the car but never suggested that we should fit a power distribution block of some sort.
Just to give some idea of what has been fitted to the vehicle since, HF Radio, UHF Radio, new Stereo, Under bonnet hot water shower, Under bonnet air compressor, Water tank with pump, 1000 Watt Inverter, Fluro Light by rear door and I’m guessing a couple of other things that don’t spring immediately to mind.
Some of the problems I have experienced are, a parasitic drain on the starting battery, since then a auto electrician in Darwin has installed an isolator switch on the dash which cuts off the stereo and a couple of other things. This seemed to sort the problem for a while but recently it seems to be back, if somewhat occasionally intermittently. I’m pretty sure this is a new problem raising its head, maybe a sticky relay? The other day the brake lights got stuck on, nothing to do with the pedal, I then restarted the car and when switched off the lights went off? In the last week I have disconnected the starting battery and it has remained charged, a credit to it as the amount of times it has been run flat it should have died, probably soon will I guess.
I have just ordered a DC Clamp Amp meter so this might help me find what is draining the starting battery. To the “Crunch” of why I am rambling on, I intend to get all the wiring for the accessories redone. Many of the accessories were fitted by Electric Bug in Adelaide and to say that the work was sub standard would be being VERY kind. There have been issues with everything they have done bar the HF. Just to give an idea of this, the wire for the inverter was very thin with a 30 amp fuse fitted! Do the maths of what a 1000 watt inverter will pull and you can see this is a joke, worst of all is they said they fit ALL there inverters with this wire and have never used anything heavier! Anyway, the auto electrician in Darwin has looked behind the dash and has said it is scary! I believe him as I had to pull out the UHF when on the road to fix it due to poor instillation only to find that 3 of the four bolt holes in the dash had been stripped! Electric bug were the only ones to ever have had access to this! I’m not saying there products are bad, but the instillation ---------------------
Ok, so what can the 12 Volt Guru’s on EO suggest I get done? It would be great if there was just a couple of wires to the battery terminals and the rest in to some sort of distribution block, if all the fuses could be in one place this would be good too! As it stands some fuses are behind the dash and the others randomly scattered around the engine bay.
What I hope to achieve from this exercise is a well functioning trouble free electrical system that in the unlikely event there is an issue I will have some hope of finding it myself should I be in a remote area.

Thanks for taking the time to read!

Cheers

Lyndon


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Reply By: Member - Andrew L (QLD) - Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 18:17

Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 18:17
I guess there is merit in keeping things simple..which you haven't.

I run the electrical items you list for yourself, and quite a few more in a 105 Landcruiser.
My system, Toyota alternator, 2 x N70Z lead acid batteries permanently linked together under the bonnet.
I run 6mm, 8mm and 10mm (wire with circuit breakers close to the batteries) to the rear to service compressor, camper Anderson plug, inverter and HF, ..and nothing else.....except a pair of quality jumper leads if......someone else has a problem.

If I am camped for a few days and the batteries need a charge, I go for a 20 minute drive every 2nd or 3rd day.

Good luck chasing the problem(s) though, electrical gremlins are not fun.
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Reply By: Member - lyndon NT - Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 18:18

Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 18:18
In case that didn’t make sense, all off those accessories are connected to the battery terminals
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 21:04

Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 21:04
Lyndon, if u email me the pics I can add them for you mate? My email is behind my members pic.
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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Monday, May 09, 2011 at 06:58

Monday, May 09, 2011 at 06:58
Hi Bonz

I have sent you those pictures

Cheers

Lyndon
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Monday, May 09, 2011 at 18:25

Monday, May 09, 2011 at 18:25
Have arranged for them to be added Lyndon into your original post mate. All is good. Dunno what happened to you when you tried.
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Reply By: Member - Trouper (NSW) - Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 18:32

Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 18:32
Bloody Hell that sounds horrible Lyndon, Can you re wire yourself ? if so buy a fuze box that suits the number of accessories you have and screw it to the firewall or similiar, close to the battery remove the wiring for each acc and redo it yourself ensuring that you use the correct size (plus some) wire. If you cant do it yourself go to a known auto elect.

regards.........jeff
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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Monday, May 09, 2011 at 07:01

Monday, May 09, 2011 at 07:01
Hi Jeff

I have a rough idea of what to do, but rough might not be good enough. I have yet to get a firm quote to fix but I'm guessing 2k.

Cheers

Lyndon
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Reply By: Member - Charlie M (SA) - Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 20:52

Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 20:52
Hi
Lyndon
Re brake lights coming on, do you have electric brake controller and if so if it is a Voyager controller this may be that problem. They have a history of setting brake lights on when vehicle is turned off even if nothing connected.
Cheers
Charlie
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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Monday, May 09, 2011 at 07:05

Monday, May 09, 2011 at 07:05
Hi Charlie

I have a Prodigy controller, had not thought of that aspect, will check once my DC tong meter arrives.

Thanks

Lyndon
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Follow Up By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Monday, May 09, 2011 at 18:56

Monday, May 09, 2011 at 18:56
I'll second that. If you have a Tekonsha voyager, It's a prime suspect.


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Reply By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 23:25

Sunday, May 08, 2011 at 23:25
Lyndon, much of the stuff you may need can be bought on-line from ABR Sidewinder. Derek is a Business Member of this site, ExplorOz.
This link will take you to his page of Connectors, Fuses, and Breakers and you can navigate from there to the other pages.


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Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Monday, May 09, 2011 at 07:07

Monday, May 09, 2011 at 07:07
Hi Al

I had looked around but hat not checked Dereks site. Thanks for the Idea.

Thanks

Lyndon
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, May 09, 2011 at 02:01

Monday, May 09, 2011 at 02:01
Lyndon,
Disconnect the small earth wire on the Redarc and see if your parasitic load goes away. On a 2004 model Redarc, the coil stays energised until the starting battery drops to 12.5V. A waste of good electrons which is solved by fitting a relay into that earth wire, so it only connects when the IGN is on.

As for the rest of the spaghetti.......Start again????
AnswerID: 453688

Follow Up By: Member - lyndon NT - Monday, May 09, 2011 at 07:11

Monday, May 09, 2011 at 07:11
Hi Phil

Thanks for the idea, I will look in to it, the battery is however being drained well below 12.5v.

Thanks

Lyndon
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Reply By: SelmerVI - Tuesday, May 10, 2011 at 13:47

Tuesday, May 10, 2011 at 13:47
Hi Lyndon

I just finished rewiring all my accessories. Apart from using wire with appropriate amount of copper for the load, very important to have the fuse(s) as close to the battery as possible, and prior to the cabling travelling through the vehicle. If there is any short, then the fuse blows at the start of the wiring, not at the end! Example: my compressor is inside the vehicle, and kept blowing fuses at the battery end. Rewired the power supply, and found that there was a small wear through the insulation where it passed through the firewall, where it was shorting out. If the fuse had been after the firewall, then big problems and potential for fire. Main thing is to protect the vehicle.

In my case, I have an 8 post terminal fuse block next to the auxiliary battery, from which I run all my accessory cabling. Mine came from Piranha many years ago.

There is still a lot of additional cabling travelling around the vehicle, but it is very orderly now! And well fused.


Peter
AnswerID: 453846

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